Double Glazing

I looked around for decent uPVC manufactures a while back when I had the most of the house windows changed. I was getting very silly quotes at the time, some companies even didn’t turn up when I asked how they support bay windows. One company quoted £4500 just for 2 bays, crazy! In the end I believe I paid £3800 inc VAT for 3 large bays and 9 other windows, all A rated leaded glass. Just the other day when visiting a friend I was astonished he paid Anglian windows £9,500 when the work should of cost no more than £2500. He also was complaining of draughts coming out the edges once fitted.

There are several profiles out there. I found a company locally that use the Selecta profile which i think is excellent. I used a digital laser measure (not a cheap ultrasonic) to measure all the opening and draw up a diagram to get a quote from the same company i used before. Since I had my windows changed approx 2 years ago the costs seemed to have increased although this time there were 2 large French doors. The hype of bi-folding sliding doors was not work my while. They cost over £2500 for just one door. They would not have be practical for us, mainly to get some air in the room you would have to open the door so I opted for French doors with side panels with a small opening window above.

This is how I fitted them myself.


The window sills come slightly wider than the frames.  A notch was cut with a 50mm overhang. I will have to do this with all the frames to match the rest of the house.


I left 2-4mm gap on either side. In very hot weather I’m sure the plastic will expand and I would like to avoid the creaking noise when they cool. Also I would be able to get the silicon right in to provide a water tight seal. Before attaching the frame to the sill I always put a bead of silicon to draft-proof and to pervent any water ingress for example when using a jet wash to wash them down.


I put a couple of spacers underneath to allow for the mortar bed before fixing.


I drilled 2 pilot holes using s 6mm drill 150mm down from the top and 150mm from the bottom. I may put another one in the middle if required.


I clamped on a spirit level to make it easier to hold in place so I could drill the final hole through the frame into the brickwork.


I used the latest fixtures that do not require a plug or expanding type screws. These new type cut the thread into the brick. They have very fine sharp teeth and a torx type head. You have to make sure you get the correct size drill bit. I think it was 7-8mm. Too bit and it will not stay in place. There was just about enough space to allow the plaster board to be bonded to the brickwork. I did not want to rely on fixing it just to the cavity closer.

more coming soon…